{"id":8433,"date":"2020-01-03T10:07:52","date_gmt":"2020-01-03T03:07:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.coolmate.me\/da-nappa-la-gi-8433"},"modified":"2026-01-20T10:03:02","modified_gmt":"2026-01-20T03:03:02","slug":"da-nappa-la-gi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.coolmate.me\/blog\/da-nappa-la-gi","title":{"rendered":"Da Nappa l\u00e0 g\u00ec? V\u00e9n m\u00e0n “N\u1eef ho\u00e0ng” da thu\u1ed9c cao c\u1ea5p nh\u1ea5t"},"content":{"rendered":"

B\u1ea1n m\u00ea m\u1ea9n nh\u1eefng m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ed3 da m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, sang tr\u1ecdng nh\u01b0ng v\u1eabn l\u0103n t\u0103n Da Nappa l\u00e0 g\u00ec v\u00e0 li\u1ec7u c\u00f3 \u0111\u00e1ng \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ea7u t\u01b0? \u0110\u1eebng lo, <\/span>Coolmate<\/span><\/a> s\u1ebd gi\u00fap b\u1ea1n “v\u00e9n m\u00e0n” m\u1ecdi b\u00ed m\u1eadt v\u1ec1 “n\u1eef ho\u00e0ng” da thu\u1ed9c n\u00e0y! T\u1eeb \u0111\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a, \u01b0u nh\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111i\u1ec3m, \u0111\u1ebfn c\u00e1ch ph\u00e2n bi\u1ec7t th\u1eadt gi\u1ea3 v\u00e0 ch\u0103m s\u00f3c \u0111\u00fang c\u00e1ch \u2013 t\u1ea5t t\u1ea7n t\u1eadt ki\u1ebfn th\u1ee9c chu\u1ea9n chuy\u00ean gia s\u1ebd c\u00f3 trong b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft n\u00e0y. S\u1eb5n s\u00e0ng n\u00e2ng t\u1ea7m phong c\u00e1ch v\u00e0 gu th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 c\u1ee7a b\u1ea1n ch\u01b0a?<\/span><\/p>\n

Da Nappa l\u00e0 g\u00ec? “V\u00e9n m\u00e0n” b\u00ed m\u1eadt v\u1ec1 n\u1eef ho\u00e0ng c\u1ee7a th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi da thu\u1ed9c<\/b><\/h2>\n

\u0110\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a chu\u1ea9n x\u00e1c v\u1ec1 da Nappa: “Danh x\u01b0ng” c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o<\/b><\/h3>\n

Da Nappa kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 t\u00ean c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t lo\u00e0i \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1eadt, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t thu\u1eadt ng\u1eef chung ch\u1ec9 c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i da th\u1eadt to\u00e0n l\u1edbp (full-grain \u2013 l\u1edbp da ngo\u00e0i c\u00f9ng, b\u1ec1n v\u00e0 ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng nh\u1ea5t) \u0111\u00e3 qua m\u1ed9t quy tr\u00ecnh thu\u1ed9c da \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t. Quy tr\u00ecnh n\u00e0y t\u1ea1o ra b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da c\u1ef1c k\u1ef3 m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, m\u1ecbn m\u00e0ng v\u00e0 d\u1ebbo dai.<\/span><\/p>\n

Hi\u1ec3u \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n, Nappa ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 “danh x\u01b0ng” cho ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u1ec9nh cao trong ng\u00e0nh da thu\u1ed9c. N\u00f3 th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m t\u1eeb da c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c lo\u00e0i \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1eadt non nh\u01b0 c\u1eebu non, d\u00ea con, b\u00f2 con, n\u01a1i c\u00f3 l\u1edbp da m\u1ec1m v\u00e0 \u00edt khuy\u1ebft \u0111i\u1ec3m nh\u1ea5t. \u0110\u1eb7c t\u00ednh c\u1ed1t l\u00f5i c\u1ee7a da Nappa l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i v\u01b0\u1ee3t tr\u1ed9i v\u00e0 vi\u1ec7c gi\u1eef l\u1ea1i g\u1ea7n nh\u01b0 nguy\u00ean v\u1eb9n k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u v\u00e2n da t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Da<\/p>\n

B\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da Nappa v\u1edbi c\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng v\u00e2n t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 m\u1ecbn m\u00e0ng \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c th\u00fa v\u1ecb: T\u1eeb thung l\u0169ng Napa huy\u1ec1n tho\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ebfn kh\u1eafp th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi<\/b><\/h3>\n

H\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a da Nappa b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1871 t\u1ea1i thung l\u0169ng Napa, California, M\u1ef9. M\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u1ee3 thu\u1ed9c da t\u00e0i ba g\u1ed1c \u0110\u1ee9c t\u00ean l\u00e0 Emanuel Manasse, khi l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c cho c\u00f4ng ty Sawyer Tanning, \u0111\u00e3 ph\u00e1t minh ra m\u1ed9t quy tr\u00ecnh thu\u1ed9c da \u0111\u1ed9t ph\u00e1.<\/span><\/p>\n

Quy tr\u00ecnh n\u00e0y t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i da m\u1ec1m d\u1ebbo v\u00e0 b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9 ch\u01b0a t\u1eebng c\u00f3. T\u00ean g\u1ecdi “Nappa” c\u0169ng ra \u0111\u1eddi t\u1eeb \u0111\u00f3, \u0111\u1eb7t theo ch\u00ednh t\u00ean c\u1ee7a thung l\u0169ng huy\u1ec1n tho\u1ea1i n\u00e0y. S\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng nhanh ch\u00f3ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1edbi th\u1eddi trang cao c\u1ea5p s\u0103n \u0111\u00f3n v\u00e0 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh ti\u00eau chu\u1ea9n v\u00e0ng cho ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng da thu\u1ed9c cho \u0111\u1ebfn ng\u00e0y nay.<\/span><\/p>\n

Quy tr\u00ecnh “ch\u1ebf t\u00e1c” l\u00e0m n\u00ean ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng v\u01b0\u1ee3t tr\u1ed9i c\u1ee7a da Nappa<\/b><\/h3>\n

S\u1ef1 kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a da Nappa n\u1eb1m \u1edf quy tr\u00ecnh ch\u1ebf t\u00e1c t\u1ec9 m\u1ec9. Ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p thu\u1ed9c da b\u1eb1ng mu\u1ed1i crom (Chromium tanning process), gi\u00fap da tr\u1edf n\u00ean m\u1ec1m d\u1ebbo v\u00e0 b\u1ec1n m\u00e0u ch\u1ec9 trong v\u00e0i ng\u00e0y, \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi \u00edt g\u00e2y t\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ebfn m\u00f4i tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u01a1n c\u00e1c ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u0110i\u1ec3m m\u1ea5u ch\u1ed1t n\u1eb1m \u1edf c\u00f4ng \u0111o\u1ea1n ho\u00e0n thi\u1ec7n. Thay v\u00ec ph\u1ee7 m\u1ed9t l\u1edbp s\u01a1n d\u00e0y, da Nappa \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nhu\u1ed9m b\u1eb1ng thu\u1ed1c nhu\u1ed9m aniline h\u00f2a tan. Lo\u1ea1i thu\u1ed1c nhu\u1ed9m n\u00e0y th\u1ea5m s\u00e2u v\u00e0o t\u1eebng th\u1edb da, gi\u00fap m\u00e0u s\u1eafc b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9 t\u1eeb b\u00ean trong m\u00e0 v\u1eabn gi\u1eef nguy\u00ean v\u1eb9n v\u1ebb \u0111\u1eb9p c\u1ee7a v\u00e2n da t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean v\u00e0 c\u00e1c l\u1ed7 ch\u00e2n l\u00f4ng. B\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da g\u1ea7n nh\u01b0 kh\u00f4ng qua m\u00e0i hay \u0111\u00e1nh b\u00f3ng, t\u00f4n vinh tr\u1ecdn v\u1eb9n v\u1ebb \u0111\u1eb9p nguy\u00ean b\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a t\u1ea5m da th\u00f4 ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Da<\/p>\n

Ba b\u01b0\u1edbc ch\u00ednh l\u00e0m n\u00ean da nappa: Ch\u1ecdn da th\u00f4 -> Thu\u1ed9c da Crom -> Nhu\u1ed9m Aniline<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\u01afu \u0111i\u1ec3m v\u01b0\u1ee3t tr\u1ed9i c\u1ee7a da Nappa<\/b><\/h2>\n

C\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, m\u1ecbn m\u00e0ng “nh\u01b0 da em b\u00e9” ch\u1ea1m l\u00e0 m\u00ea<\/b><\/h3>\n

\u0110i\u1ec3m \u01b0u vi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean v\u00e0 c\u0169ng l\u00e0 \u0111\u1eaft gi\u00e1 nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a da Nappa ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c khi ch\u1ea1m v\u00e0o. B\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da m\u01b0\u1ee3t m\u00e0, \u00eam \u00e1i v\u00e0 m\u00e1t tay, th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c v\u00ed nh\u01b0 l\u1ee5a satin hay “l\u00e0n da em b\u00e9”. S\u1ef1 m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i n\u00e0y \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eeb vi\u1ec7c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng da non v\u00e0 quy tr\u00ecnh thu\u1ed9c \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t kh\u00f4ng l\u00e0m c\u1ee9ng b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t.<\/span><\/p>\n

Kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 m\u1ec1m, da Nappa c\u00f2n r\u1ea5t “th\u1edf”. V\u00ec gi\u1eef nguy\u00ean c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac l\u1ed7 ch\u00e2n l\u00f4ng t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean, kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u01b0u th\u00f4ng d\u1ec5 d\u00e0ng. \u0110i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y gi\u00fap ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00f9ng lu\u00f4n c\u1ea3m th\u1ea5y tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i, kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb b\u00ed b\u00e1ch khi s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng c\u00e1c s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m nh\u01b0 \u00e1o kho\u00e1c hay g\u0103ng tay trong th\u1eddi gian d\u00e0i.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Da<\/em><\/p>\n

Da Nappa c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, m\u1ecbn m\u00e0ng<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ed9 b\u1ec1n \u1ea5n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng v\u00e0 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng “l\u00e3o h\u00f3a \u0111\u1eb9p” (Patina) theo th\u1eddi gian<\/b><\/h3>\n

\u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m t\u1eeb l\u1edbp da full-grain ch\u1eafc ch\u1eafn nh\u1ea5t, da Nappa c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ed9 b\u1ec1n r\u1ea5t cao. Nh\u01b0ng \u0111i\u1ec1u \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t h\u01a1n c\u1ea3 l\u00e0 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng “l\u00e3o h\u00f3a \u0111\u1eb9p” theo th\u1eddi gian, hay c\u00f2n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 hi\u1ec7u \u1ee9ng Patina.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 xu\u1ed1ng c\u1ea5p, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh “tr\u01b0\u1edfng th\u00e0nh” \u0111\u1ea7y quy\u1ebfn r\u0169. Qua qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng, da s\u1ebd h\u1ea5p th\u1ee5 d\u1ea7u t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean t\u1eeb tay ng\u01b0\u1eddi, ti\u1ebfp x\u00fac v\u1edbi kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed v\u00e0 \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng, d\u1ea7n h\u00ecnh th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t l\u1edbp b\u00f3ng nh\u1eb9. M\u00e0u s\u1eafc s\u1ebd ng\u1ea3 sang t\u00f4ng \u0111\u1eadm v\u00e0 \u1ea5m h\u01a1n, c\u00e1c v\u1ebft x\u01b0\u1edbc nh\u1ecf h\u00f2a quy\u1ec7n v\u00e0o b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t \u0111\u1ed9c nh\u1ea5t. Patina ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 “d\u1ea5u \u1ea5n c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n”, k\u1ec3 l\u1ea1i c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u1ee7 s\u1edf h\u1eefu v\u00e0 bi\u1ebfn s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m tr\u1edf n\u00ean \u0111\u1ed9c b\u1ea3n.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Da<\/p>\n

Chi\u1ebfc v\u00ed da Nappa m\u1edbi v\u00e0 chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u00e3 qua s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng nhi\u1ec1u c\u00f3 l\u1edbp Patina b\u00f3ng \u0111\u1eb9p<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

V\u1ebb ngo\u00e0i sang tr\u1ecdng, \u0111\u1eb3ng c\u1ea5p: T\u00f4n l\u00ean gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00f9ng<\/b><\/h3>\n

V\u1ebb \u0111\u1eb9p c\u1ee7a da Nappa \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eeb s\u1ef1 tinh t\u1ebf v\u00e0 t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean. B\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t da g\u1ea7n nh\u01b0 ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o v\u1edbi c\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng v\u00e2n s\u1eafc n\u00e9t kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb che l\u1ea5p b\u1edfi l\u1edbp ph\u1ee7 d\u00e0y. Ch\u00ednh s\u1ef1 nguy\u00ean b\u1ea3n n\u00e0y t\u1ea1o n\u00ean m\u1ed9t v\u1ebb sang tr\u1ecdng “th\u1ea7m l\u1eb7ng”, kh\u00f4ng ph\u00f4 tr\u01b0\u01a1ng.<\/span><\/p>\n

S\u1edf h\u1eefu m\u1ed9t m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ed3 da Nappa, d\u00f9 l\u00e0 \u00e1o kho\u00e1c, v\u00ed hay th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng, c\u0169ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t tuy\u00ean ng\u00f4n v\u1ec1 gu th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 tinh t\u1ebf. N\u00f3 cho th\u1ea5y b\u1ea1n l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi tr\u00e2n tr\u1ecdng ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng, s\u1ef1 kh\u00e9o l\u00e9o trong ch\u1ebf t\u00e1c v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea7u t\u01b0 v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb b\u1ec1n v\u1eefng v\u1edbi th\u1eddi gian.<\/span><\/p>\n

Nh\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111i\u1ec3m c\u1ea7n c\u00e2n nh\u1eafc tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi “xu\u1ed1ng ti\u1ec1n”<\/b><\/h2>\n

Gi\u00e1 th\u00e0nh kh\u00f4ng h\u1ec1 “m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i”: \u0110\u1ea7u t\u01b0 x\u1ee9ng \u0111\u00e1ng cho ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng<\/b><\/h3>\n

Th\u1eb3ng th\u1eafn m\u00e0 n\u00f3i, gi\u00e1 th\u00e0nh cao l\u00e0 r\u00e0o c\u1ea3n l\u1edbn nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a da Nappa. M\u1ee9c gi\u00e1 n\u00e0y ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n c\u00f3 l\u00fd do:<\/span><\/p>\n